![]() If perhaps something happens to compromise the cooling system and in worst case water has to be added to get going the waterless coolant will not work as well as designed so drive accordingly however this added water can be boiled off the waterless coolant so it’s not all wasted. Take EVANS™ “which is what I use” waterless coolant as an example it virtually eliminates corrosion, steaming, cavitation and electrolysis it has lifetime service and can be run at zero cap pressure to eliminate cooling system pressure load. I did the switch to waterless coolant years ago and I’m confident it was the right thing to do. I see very few using waterless coolant and most others are sticking to old school theory’s “ethaline glycol & water” (EGW) is less a hassle to justify not switching, or OAT’s coolant is what GM™ recommends. Car uses a 92✬ (197.6✯) thermostat, stock 91º/99º radiator temperature sensor.I have no interest in nor am I affiliated with and commercial entity mentioned herein and only use their products without compensation. The car ran better than ever.Īll this with a completely stock E36 cooling system aside from the Aluminium HEPU water pump and aluminium thermostat housing. The next day, I finished the last 400km or so of the trip in very mild weather. The electrical auxiliary fan did not go to high speed when I made stops every hour or so just to stretch my legs (etc). In any case, there was no overheating and no loss of coolant. I attribute this to ECU perhaps not having programming to deal with the sensory input from this excruciatingly hot weather, or attempting to trim the fuel based on input from the O2 sensors. The only issue I noted was, despite a continuous accelerator position, there was a slight bogging and surging every so often. ![]() Eventually, I did reduce my speed to about 80km/h, as I was concerned about the hot road surface and the tires. A/C was running, and eventually set to Recirculated. The cabin was stuffed to the ceiling with my stuff, so she was a heavy car. of the drive occurred in heat that I knew was more than 46º (115✯), probably exceeding even 50✬ (120✯). Just remember to use a multimeter to check for electrolysis (Per this guide on "Doug's Domain") and flush the coolant every one to two years.īack in February, during the height of the Australian summer, I drove my E36 from the Northwest of Australia down to our capital city here in WA. Either way, having a higher mixture of water is perfectly fine, especially if you are using distilled water in the cooling system. In my E36, the Owner's Manual recommends a 60:40 mix of water to coolant (or was it vice-versa?). You may wish to use some hot (near boiling) water to double-check whether the switch even works, they're pretty cheap to replace, too. My other suggestion is double-checking the electric auxiliary fan is working, disconnect the wiring connector from that radiator switch, and jumper it ( Per these instructions). Depending on the clutch installed, you may or may not get significant fan noise from standing in traffic in hot weather. you can stop it with a newspaper very easily, and it takes a while to start spinning again), you've got a problem. If it isn't locking up when standing on a hot day, (i.e. Big things are ensuring you have the correct thermostat, water pump is serviceable and hoses are in good nic. The cooling system in the E30 and E36 is not perfect, but it can surely work to the extremes of temperature. I'd be somewhat concerned about using "water wetter" and that sort of thing. If I wasn't experiencing limited overheating tendencies, or wasn't on a racetrack which prohibits glycols, I would definitely not screw around with additizing standard coolant+water. This strategy effectively controlled the overheat issue. I only ran _just_ enough glycol to prevent freezing in the A/C evaporator. I added Water Wetter to assure corrosion control and lube/conditioning. I changed a former vehicle over to a very low percentage of glycol coolant in order to control its tendency to overheat when towing, and when operating in temps above ~110F, which are very common here in AZ. Significantly increasing the proportion of straight water in the mix does indeed improve cooling capacity, because the specific heat of water is higher than that of glycol coolant. Specific heat of the coolant or more flow from a larger water pump won't help. Even if water wetter allows more heat to be picked up in the engine it won't help heat rejection. ![]() ![]() The only thing that can make a vehicle run cooler is a bigger radiator (more surface area). ![]()
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